In 2010 I left the Netherlands and moved to Jordan with the intention to build up a new life over there. Things went differently than expected and in 2013 I returned back to the Netherlands, with nothing to nothing and I was forced to start all over again. Now, almost 10 years later, it's time to breathe new life into this old dream. To make a first move, I have dug up an old blog post I had written in 2011 which was also publiced in the monthy Magazine of Connect International in Groningen, and now posting it here, on my fresh new Jordan blog called Sense Jordan. Starting with Jordan's highlight Petra the ancient Nabatean city.
Why am I in Jordan?
After two holidays in Jordan, I liked it so much that last year I went back and stayed for three months in the country’s Capital Amman. Experiencing first-hand what a “culture shock” means, I’ve survived. By the time this article appears, I hope to be back in the Middle East. In my first article about Jordan I would like to tell you a little about the history and highlights of Jordan’s world famous attraction: the Nabateaen city Petra.
History
The founders of Petra, a nomadic tribe from western Arabia, settled in the area around the 6th century BC. First the Nabataeans gathered their fortune through plundering. Later, the city flourished through its control of the incense trade caravan routes crossing the area.
Instead of a real empire, from about 200 BC, the Nabataeans established a ‘zone of influence’ stretching out from the Arabian Peninsula to southern Syria. During Petra’s glory days the city had over 30,000 inhabitants, ingenious water systems, and grand buildings of Hellenistic, Roman and some local influences blended together. As a nomadic desert people, having no architectural heritage of their own, the Nabataeans had to “import” their construction design from a major surrounding civilization.
From 63 BC the Romans’ influence became stronger. The first attempt by the Roman general Pompey to acquire the Nabateaen wealth failed, as he could be bought off. The second time the Nabateaen were less lucky, when their influence was dramatically reduced by the Roman/Parthian (Persian) war. Finally, in 106 AD Petra was absorbed into the Roman Empire as the Provincia Arabia Petraea, which also marks the end of the Nabateaen dominance of the area.
Natural forces were eventually responsible for the decline of Petra. Two earthquakes in 363 and 551 AD ruined most of the buildings, leaving a lost city behind. It was not until 1912 when the Swiss Explorer J. L. Burckhardt finally rediscovered Petra. Excavations started in 1921 and continue to this day.
Highlights of Petra – A quick tour through the ancient city.
The Siq
A visit to Petra starts with a 1.2 km walk through the Siq, a narrow curved corridor in-between towering rock formations. At the end of the gorge, like a miracle, the first glimpse of Petra’s magic appears: the Treasury.
The Treasury
It’s here, with the imposing giant measurements (43 x 40 m) and the magnificent Hellenistic façade, visitors fall in love with Petra. A little closer, another tomb complex is revealed, discovered in 2003 underneath the treasury. The Royal tomb is named after a myth in which an Egyptian pharaoh hides his wealth in the urn in the middle of the treasury’s façade. While no gold ever was found, pockmarks of rifle shots are the silent witnesses of locals believing otherwise.
Street of Facades
Walking from the Treasury towards the Theatre, visitors pass the Street of Facades; 40 houses and tombs meant for the average Nabataean. Even though Petra is full of tombs like this, these ones are surely worth a visit, since they are the most accessible.
Theatre
The Roman style theatre, originally used for Nabataean performances, could seat 3000 visitors. Later, it was remodeled so that as an open-air playhouse it could hold up to 8000 people (in those days, 1/3 of the local inhabitants). Earthquakes have meant that unlike other ancient theatres in the region, this stage is not in use nowadays.
Royal Tombs
Continuing the walk, higher up in the rocks there are five royal tombs: the Uneisha, Silk, Corinthian, Palace and Sextius Florentius Tomb. These impressive burial places were meant for the rich and famous of Petra: Nabateaen kings and ministers and roman emperors.
Colonnaded Street
The Temos Gateway, original bumpy Roman pavement, impressive columns and remains of the Nymphaum fountain as well as the market area and the Royal Palace all go to make up the collonaded street. Walk over it and sense the history of these rocks.
Great Temple, Petra Church and Monastery
After Roman Emperor Constantine’s conversion to Christianity and the cleavage of the Roman territory in 395, Petra became part of the eastern half of the Byzantine Empire. Most religious buildings were not demolished, but simply modified to the emperor’s new religion, a common phenomenon in history. In Petra, the Great Temple, Petra Church and the Monastery are three examples of this.
The great Temple was originally built and used for religious purposes by the Nabateaens, despite being badly damaged by different earthquakes; it has been in use for Christian purposes up until Byzantine times.
The structure of the Petra Church was originally built by the Nabateaens, later expanded and redesigned into a church by the Byzantines. Today the remains of the church are covered by a futuristic roof construction for the protection of its beautiful, exquisite Byzantine floor mosaics.
To reach the Monastery an 800 step ancient rock-cut path has to be climbed. Similar in design to the Treasury, but far bigger (50 x 45 m), this burial place is just as astonishing and impressive. The Monastery gets its name from the crosses carved on the inside wall, which also indicates that this place was used as a Byzantine church.
Tips from a frequent Petra visitor:
There is no need to carry a whole day’s food supply with you; food and drinks are available inside the ancient city, even high up at the Monastery. Also, don’t worry about “open air” toilets; normal bathrooms are available all around in Petra.
Most travel guides advise to visit Petra very early in the day (city opens at sunrise) because of the crowds and heat. Also good times are late afternoons or early evenings in the summer time, when a cool breeze blows into the ancient city and the hordes of tourists head home. Off-season or during Ramadan, the ancient city is all yours.
If you visit Petra between November and March, you may find it rather cold and wet. There is occasional snow and in winter, when days are short, it’s dark around five in the afternoon.
From the entrance at the Siq until high up at the Monastery, local Bedouin people will try to sell you jewellery, scarves and other baubles. Also, “taxi rides” will be constantly offered on the back of camel or donkey. It may be annoying, but bear in mind that these locals are only trying to make a living. So, why not buy the beautiful necklaces, take a donkey ride up to higher places or view Petra from the back of a camel?
And the best tip: my favorite places in Petra are up the hill by the Monastery, where there are two magnificent viewing points of the Wadi Arabia. Even more striking is the absolute silence of this outside corner of Petra.
First published in the Connections magazine, Spring issue #31 2011
www.connect-int.org
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